Berlin: East Side Gallery & Reichstag

“There are many people in the world who really don’t understand-or say they don’t-what is the great issue between the free world and the Communist world. Let them come to Berlin!” -John F. Kennedy (1963)

Today, despite waking up late, I immediately grab my coffee to go and head out for another afternoon wandering Berlin. Tomorrow I’ll join the group for Potsdam, but today I want to see the East Side gallery; a long stretch of original street art painted on the longest intact section of the Berlin Wall. Most of the art is inspirational and relevant to the oppression and feelings related to the wall’s existence and its fall in 1989.

It takes me a while to get there, but eventually I’m exiting the Ostbahnof station into a bleak industrial looking section of the city, complete with torn billboards, large stretches of bare concrete, graffiti and open dirt pits. Soon, I see the wall though, and walking the length viewing the 106 paintings that consist of this open air gallery is fantastic. I take my time admiring the politically charged art and appreciating the messages.

The Berlin Wall was comprised of two parallel walls and the space between was known as “The Death Strip.” There is an open space in the front wall where you can see a remaining piece of the second wall, thus the middle section. The Death Strip is the hardest to see after learning about it. The walls aren’t so tall, but have rounded tops preventing hooks from catching. I learn though, that even if people made it over the wall, they had to make it past the strip that was patrolled by guards and sniper with shoot to kill orders. It’s tragic. I can’t imagine what it must have felt like to wake one morning and learn that in the middle of the night your city was divided into East and West. Friends and family that might reside on the opposite side of the wall are suddenly separated from you, by a wall you’re not allowed to pass through.

Near the end of the Gallery, I sit behind the wall along the River Spree, to write and enjoy the warmth of the sun. Today I can finally enjoy the spring weather that’s been missing… I can even take off my jacket! *small pleasures*

I’m soon back on the S-Bahn and make my way to the Reichstag, since I haven’t been inside yet. The Reichstag is the center of the German Government. I stand in an endless line for nearly an hour, luckily with a book to occupy me. A rowdy Italian school group gossiping and flirting, a few snapshots for a travel couple, and a couple chapters in my book later, I’m through the metal detector and exiting the elevator into the large glass dome. There is a tornado of mirrors in the center and spirals of walkways along the side the circle that leads up to the outside platform.

Inside the dome of the Reichstag

I enjoy a panoramic view of Berlin from every direction. To the West I can see Tiergarten and the Brandenburg Gate to the South. Looking East I see Museum Island and the TV Tower. The best part… is I’ve arrived just in time for sunset across the sprawling yard of the Reichstag that has hosted many historical rallies and protests. Inside, there is a photographic timeline recounting major events at the Reichstag; the exhibition includes photos of important government meetings, rallies, the Fire of 1933, and even a Michael Jackson concert!

After sunset, I grab a quick meal of Currywurst and meet up with some friends for a random, rambunctious night the begins with a joke-filled walk to the S-Bahn and ends with me being so very thankful I made it home and am safely and warmly in bed. So tired.
Tomorrow… Potsdam!

Berlin: Museums, currywurst, and lots of walking

“Berlin combines the culture of New York, the traffic system of Tokyo, the nature of Seattle, and the historical treasures of, well, Berlin.” -Hiroshi Motomura

Today I was considering joining the group heading to Potsdam, but decided to sleep in, be leisurely and make my own way. I jump on the U-Bahn in the direction of Museum Island. Here are five or six museums surrounded by small rivers. I explore almost all of them seeing some amazing sculptures and art. The Pergamon Museum, in particular, blew my mind. It has a full Greek altar inside, as well as entire Roman columns, archways, and details mosaic floors! I’m stunned as I had no idea this was here! I pop into a couple other museums, ending with the Neues Museum that holds the famous bust of Nefertiti! There is much debate over where this priceless artifact should be displayed and it make its way back to Egypt eventually, as Egypt continues to demand its repatriation. Germany claims rights to the beauty, because it was a German archaeologist that uncovered it in 1912. I’m pretty stoked to view the nearly flawless ancient sculpture. Walking through wings of ancient jewelry, pottery, and other artifacts, I make my way back outside.

The Market Gate of Miletus inside Pergamon

After grabbing a quick-lunch of Berlin’s staple currywurst, (which I really like and enjoy more than once as a quick lunch on the go!) I take a quick glance at Checkpoint Charlie, the famous crossing point in the Berlin Wall that separated East Berlin from the Allie occupied West.  I then head over to the very metropolitan Potsdamer Platz. This bustling square features multiple very tall, very modern buildings. I relax for a moment on a ledge, watching an indie drummer find a spot and settle down to play a bit. While listening to his music, I observe the scene; passersby strolling along, visitors taking pictures, professionals rushing, a couple of film makers record the buildings and the staple school groups troll through. Everyone is just going on about their day in this large urban square, beneath the large urban billboards and I’m suddenly aware that not a single person I know… has any idea where I am. I’m enjoying these solo moments of traveling alone. I spend much of time with roommates and other travelers I’ve met and always have a great time, but opting to spend today day exploring Berlin alone, I’m finding it nice. I don’t think I am every alone at home… ever. Work, home, or elsewhere.

Checkpoint Charlie

Small standing section of the Berlin Wall

After my short stop to relax my weary feet, I decide to walk further along to Tiergarten. It turns out to be a LONG walk. Entering the woods from the side, I feel like I’m no longer in a city at all, bare trees stretching out in every direction, separated by a couple of dirt trails. I bet the garden is beautiful in spring when the trees are full and the grass is green. In this cold season, I still find it lovely; peaceful. I keep walking and eventually dump out into a clearing, there are benches and statues spotted around… and a bit further, I’m back on the main road I saw the day before, that extends from the Brandenburg Gate to the large Victory Column, Siegessäule. Another long stretch down the tree-lined street takes me past the golden Victoria… then eventually down past Bellevue Palace (an Old Prussian Palace that now serves as the official residence of the German President).

Tiergarten

Walking along the river for a while, taking my time as I have nowhere to be. I’m happy at this moment, maybe it’s the water, I have an ingrained sense of peace connected to water. As the afternoon wears down, I wrap up my solo walking tour of Berlin and head back to my room. It’s St. Patrick’s day… and I still have the notorious Berlin nightlife to experience.

Exploring the varied history of Berlin

Brandenburg Gate

“Berlin’s legacy of artistic innovation and chaotic political change has created a spectacular mix of buildings. Neoclassical and baroque masterpieces line the streets of the historical centre. Unexpected turns into East and West Berlin neighbourhoods display competing efforts towards post-World War II reconstruction. Bombastic structures built by kings and dictators, relics from tyrannical dictatorships, vie for attention. In many places, mundane buildings stand side-by-side with some of the most daring experimental structures of modern times.” – Humboldt Tours

Following the hostel instructions, I take a city bus from the train station. I’ve always been intimidated by city buses, so I was extra careful to pay attention to my stop. Due to my break of dawn arrival, it’s too early to check into the hostel, so I’m forced to spend the morning in the commons room alternately reading and dozing. I have no desire to hit the streets of Berlin yet, until I can freshen up after my lengthy night on the train.

Eventually, I’m unpacked and joining the NEW EUROPE Berlin Walking tour. I’ve read great things about it, as it’s not your standard, boring tour group. Also, we really enjoyed their Dublin tour. Here I meet Brad from Georgia, Yumi from Japan, and a couple Canadian guys that are always looking for their next party. The tour is amazing. Our guide, Brian, really knows his stuff. I came to Berlin not knowing very much about the history beyond the surface. I’m fascinated that it is such new history; the fall of the Berlin wall happening in my lifetime. We pass many of the main sites in Berlin as we discuss the tumultuous history throughout its 700+ years, the fascinating and sobering history. We alternate between Prussian royalty, Hitler’s Nazi occupation, and the Soviet rule of Eastern Berlin.

Holocaust Memorial

The architecture alone is incredibly varied due to the long history and chaotic political change of Germany’s capital city. One can see the baroque facades of the Schloss Charlottenburg (palace) and moments later view the monolithic buildings of Stalin & the Soviet-era, continuing on to gaze up at the innovative designs of Potsdamer Platz. The Reichstag is particularly interesting where it’s contemporary dome peeks above the historical Neo-classical building.

Reichstag

Beyond the history, we move-on to the modern cultural scene in Berlin; the music, the street art, the moving club-scene and vibrant night life.

What a city! There is so much to explore in my mere four days here.